Sauntering through scenic Chautauqua County
By CARL FRANCIS PENDERS
10/13/2007 - For years I've avoided the thruway and enjoyed Route 20's splendor on numerous trips to Chautauqua Institution.
And though there are many, I have never stopped to enjoy its villages' charms — the kind the Kinks' Ray Davies sings of in ''Victoria,'' ''stately homes for the lords, croquet lawns, village greens ... Victoria was my queen. Land of hope and Gloria. Land of my Victoria.''
While she may have been Davies queen, Victoria is definitely king in this country. And it was time to get out of the car and experience some of this royalty in a not exactly regal way — on foot.
First up was Silver Creek, where the sugar sweet smell from Petri Baking Products filled the air of its village green.
The Capello Arms, circa 1878, was the most notable home on Main Street, and the scenic view of Lake Erie is visible at both Jackson Street and Lake Avenue at road's end and lake's shore. Hideaway Bay offers lakeside dining. Afterwards grab a bag of freshly made cookies at Petri's, and you're set for the rest of the trip.
On to Fredonia — or Freedonia as the Marx Brothers called it in their movie ''Duck Soup'' — where that Victorian feeling begins to gather momentum. A walk down Main Street through village green Barker Commons and to the Fredonia Opera House — rumored to have played host to a quick performance by Groucho and gang between shows in Buffalo and Erie, Pa. — will testify to it.
Stop by or call and Director Rick Davis is happy to provide an impromptu, yet thorough, tour of the historic house, and the folks at Barker Museum stand ready to do likewise.
Duncan Hines discovered The White Inn in the 1930s and included it in his ''Family of Fine Restaurants.'' It's one of the few that remains operational still serving outstanding meals to those willing to enjoy its ambience and overnight accommodations today.
Pink Floyd's ''Comfortably Numb'' blared from BJ's speakers, its staff readying for the evening's imbibing — as Fredonia is the home of the State University of New York at Fredonia and provides many respites for its thirsty students.
For those willing to shop, the walk around town offers abundant opportunities from gourmet coffee at Intermezzo and baked goods at Upper Crust to eclectic gifts and antiques at Tower Gifts and Randy's. Summer Saturdays and through mid-October Barker Commons hosts a farmer's market, as well as the Fredonia Farm Festival every August.
Upcoming events include the ''Harvest Moon Cemetery Tour'' on Friday, Oct. 19 and Saturday, Oct. 20 and the ''Miracle on Main Street'' on Saturday, Dec. 1.
Motoring south through the Lake Erie grape belt, we came to Westfield known for its varied antique shops of which there are plenty along East Main Street.
The McClurg Museum, operated by the Chautauqua County Historical Society, is the centerpiece of Westfield's village green called Moore Park. Filled with artifacts from this historically rich county, several of its rooms are furnished in grand Victorian style.
Impromptu tours are available. Across the street is the outstanding Patterson Library, complete with its own art gallery displaying the works of regional artists and Westfield Revisited, the current exhibit.
Though many of the lords have left Westfield, William Seward generations ago and more recently Welch's, fortunately they left behind what to this traveler is Westfield's great treasure — stately homes.
Leading off on East Main is the Candlelight Lodge and its neighboring Victorians. Admire them from the automobile but fully appreciate them on foot.
And to all who enjoy the beauty of such homes, a South Portage Street, Route 394, stroll is essential. Victorian Christmas in Westfield, Nov. 16, 17 and 18 which includes the Holly House Tour, is an opportunity to get up close and inside several of these classics.
Finally it is on to Mayville, the county seat as locals say, down Route 394. As I drive through, I am always thrilled at the sight of Chautauqua Lake while descending Erie Street, Route 394.
It is as though I were on a roller coaster having reached the summit, and when beginning the descent — at that tipping point with the lake in view — my entire nervous system responds with the sensation that I have entered my ''Land of hope and Gloria'' — Chautauqua. And from on foot, the views are more varied and just as magnificent.
At the hill's bottom, alongside the lake, lies the largest of our trip's green spaces — Mayville's Lakeside Park where a walk along shore is most refreshing. If you're so inclined you can launch your boat here or catch a cruise on the recently renovated Chautauqua Belle, an authentic replica of a Mississippi River steam powered paddle wheeler which runs through October.
Just a bit down 394, the Red Brick Farm offers a variety of retail outlets, beautiful gardens and landscaped grounds. And while Mayville annually hosts a morning Fourth of July parade, evening fireworks and ice and bluegrass festivals, there is a new game in town — cuisine.
While Webb's and Dick's Harbor House are reliable old standbys, fine dining has made its way on shore. It starts with the Watermark, where you can literally tie up your boat and jump ashore for dinner.
Just above the Watermark is the House on the Hill, open for breakfast and lunch. Back at the Red Brick, La Fleur specializes in fine French dining. In the heart of Mayville, a rather unlikely sight has appeared, a French bakery called Bonjour. Also in the village, Olive's is a popular and good choice.
And while walk-ins are always welcome at these spots, I might add that reservations are recommended as is a trip for you to this beautiful ''Land of hope and gloria. Land of my Victoria.''
For additional information contact the following Chambers: Fredonia, 679-1565, www.fredoniachamber.org; Mayville, 753-3113, mccc@madbbs.com; Westfield, 326-4000; Chautauqua County: 366-6200, www.chautauquachamber.org;
When you go from Buffalo/Niagara take the thruway west to Irving, exit 58. Go west on Routes 5 and 20, into Silver Creek, take a left onto Route 20.
Preferred routes: Take Route 5 until it merges with Route 20 in Irving, take them into Silver Creek and make a left onto Route 20 or take Route 20 all the way into Westfield and take a left onto Route 394 in Westfield, for the last part of the trip into Mayville.
And though there are many, I have never stopped to enjoy its villages' charms — the kind the Kinks' Ray Davies sings of in ''Victoria,'' ''stately homes for the lords, croquet lawns, village greens ... Victoria was my queen. Land of hope and Gloria. Land of my Victoria.''
While she may have been Davies queen, Victoria is definitely king in this country. And it was time to get out of the car and experience some of this royalty in a not exactly regal way — on foot.
First up was Silver Creek, where the sugar sweet smell from Petri Baking Products filled the air of its village green.
The Capello Arms, circa 1878, was the most notable home on Main Street, and the scenic view of Lake Erie is visible at both Jackson Street and Lake Avenue at road's end and lake's shore. Hideaway Bay offers lakeside dining. Afterwards grab a bag of freshly made cookies at Petri's, and you're set for the rest of the trip.
On to Fredonia — or Freedonia as the Marx Brothers called it in their movie ''Duck Soup'' — where that Victorian feeling begins to gather momentum. A walk down Main Street through village green Barker Commons and to the Fredonia Opera House — rumored to have played host to a quick performance by Groucho and gang between shows in Buffalo and Erie, Pa. — will testify to it.
Stop by or call and Director Rick Davis is happy to provide an impromptu, yet thorough, tour of the historic house, and the folks at Barker Museum stand ready to do likewise.
Duncan Hines discovered The White Inn in the 1930s and included it in his ''Family of Fine Restaurants.'' It's one of the few that remains operational still serving outstanding meals to those willing to enjoy its ambience and overnight accommodations today.
Pink Floyd's ''Comfortably Numb'' blared from BJ's speakers, its staff readying for the evening's imbibing — as Fredonia is the home of the State University of New York at Fredonia and provides many respites for its thirsty students.
For those willing to shop, the walk around town offers abundant opportunities from gourmet coffee at Intermezzo and baked goods at Upper Crust to eclectic gifts and antiques at Tower Gifts and Randy's. Summer Saturdays and through mid-October Barker Commons hosts a farmer's market, as well as the Fredonia Farm Festival every August.
Upcoming events include the ''Harvest Moon Cemetery Tour'' on Friday, Oct. 19 and Saturday, Oct. 20 and the ''Miracle on Main Street'' on Saturday, Dec. 1.
Motoring south through the Lake Erie grape belt, we came to Westfield known for its varied antique shops of which there are plenty along East Main Street.
The McClurg Museum, operated by the Chautauqua County Historical Society, is the centerpiece of Westfield's village green called Moore Park. Filled with artifacts from this historically rich county, several of its rooms are furnished in grand Victorian style.
Impromptu tours are available. Across the street is the outstanding Patterson Library, complete with its own art gallery displaying the works of regional artists and Westfield Revisited, the current exhibit.
Though many of the lords have left Westfield, William Seward generations ago and more recently Welch's, fortunately they left behind what to this traveler is Westfield's great treasure — stately homes.
Leading off on East Main is the Candlelight Lodge and its neighboring Victorians. Admire them from the automobile but fully appreciate them on foot.
And to all who enjoy the beauty of such homes, a South Portage Street, Route 394, stroll is essential. Victorian Christmas in Westfield, Nov. 16, 17 and 18 which includes the Holly House Tour, is an opportunity to get up close and inside several of these classics.
Finally it is on to Mayville, the county seat as locals say, down Route 394. As I drive through, I am always thrilled at the sight of Chautauqua Lake while descending Erie Street, Route 394.
It is as though I were on a roller coaster having reached the summit, and when beginning the descent — at that tipping point with the lake in view — my entire nervous system responds with the sensation that I have entered my ''Land of hope and Gloria'' — Chautauqua. And from on foot, the views are more varied and just as magnificent.
At the hill's bottom, alongside the lake, lies the largest of our trip's green spaces — Mayville's Lakeside Park where a walk along shore is most refreshing. If you're so inclined you can launch your boat here or catch a cruise on the recently renovated Chautauqua Belle, an authentic replica of a Mississippi River steam powered paddle wheeler which runs through October.
Just a bit down 394, the Red Brick Farm offers a variety of retail outlets, beautiful gardens and landscaped grounds. And while Mayville annually hosts a morning Fourth of July parade, evening fireworks and ice and bluegrass festivals, there is a new game in town — cuisine.
While Webb's and Dick's Harbor House are reliable old standbys, fine dining has made its way on shore. It starts with the Watermark, where you can literally tie up your boat and jump ashore for dinner.
Just above the Watermark is the House on the Hill, open for breakfast and lunch. Back at the Red Brick, La Fleur specializes in fine French dining. In the heart of Mayville, a rather unlikely sight has appeared, a French bakery called Bonjour. Also in the village, Olive's is a popular and good choice.
And while walk-ins are always welcome at these spots, I might add that reservations are recommended as is a trip for you to this beautiful ''Land of hope and gloria. Land of my Victoria.''
For additional information contact the following Chambers: Fredonia, 679-1565, www.fredoniachamber.org; Mayville, 753-3113, mccc@madbbs.com; Westfield, 326-4000; Chautauqua County: 366-6200, www.chautauquachamber.org;
When you go from Buffalo/Niagara take the thruway west to Irving, exit 58. Go west on Routes 5 and 20, into Silver Creek, take a left onto Route 20.
Preferred routes: Take Route 5 until it merges with Route 20 in Irving, take them into Silver Creek and make a left onto Route 20 or take Route 20 all the way into Westfield and take a left onto Route 394 in Westfield, for the last part of the trip into Mayville.
For more information on Chautauqua Lake Real Estate & Living visit: www.chautauqualakehomes.com
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